Abstract

Gift-giving was one of the most traditional and customary practices in the diplomatic relations of premodern Northeast Asia, and one of the gifts invariably included during such exchanges was ceremonial clothing. Ceremonial clothing was used as a means of embodying the Confucian concept of “decorum” and therefore an important instrument of political diplomacy. The act of exchanging ceremonial clothing was often a symbolic method of affirming political and diplomatic hierarchies and signaling mutual acknowledgement and recognition. Throughout history, the kings of Goryeo received ceremonial clothing from the emperors of the Song, Liao, and Jin dynasties, with particular significance given to the special official uniform worn under the emperor’s reign. However, after the Mongols established their world empire, the kings of Korea no longer received the sort of ceremonial clothing they did from the former emperors. Mongolia had an entirely different set of customs and culture pertaining to clothing, which was sometimes viewed as barbaric by the people of Goryeo. Although not conventionally ceremonial uniforms, various Mongolian-style clothing items such as hats, clothing accessories, and fabrics were gifted from Mongolia to Goryeo during this time. This diversity in clothing gifts underscores that the relationship between the two nations was mediated not merely by political but also by interpersonal relations based on amity and kinship. Furthermore, the acceptance and active use of Mongolian-style ceremonial clothing gifts by the Koreans reflect the fact that the people of Goryeo recognized the culture of the Mongolian empire as the prevalent culture of their era.